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Osijek

Croatia
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Photographing Osijek

Osijek is Slavonia's capital on the Drava River, its old town a Habsburg star-fortress of Baroque barracks and churches rather than a medieval maze.

Where to shoot

  • Tvrđa Fortress — the Habsburgs' 18th-century star-shaped garrison town, its Baroque barracks and bastion walls now Osijek's old town.
  • Cathedral of Sts. Peter and Paul — a neo-Gothic red-brick cathedral with nearly 90-meter twin spires, the second-tallest church in Croatia.
  • Church of St. Michael the Archangel — Tvrđa's yellow Jesuit church with twin onion domes, anchoring Holy Trinity Square.
  • The Drava riverbank — Osijek's real evening spot, a tree-lined promenade a short walk from the fortress walls.

When to go

Late spring or early autumn, when Slavonia's continental climate is mild enough to walk Tvrđa's fortress walls and sit along the Drava without summer heat or winter fog.

What to eat

Order fiš paprikaš, a paprika-spiced river fish stew, or ask for kulen — Slavonia's cured, paprika-rubbed pork sausage — at a konoba rather than a tourist-facing restaurant.

Where to stay

Base yourself inside or just outside Tvrđa's fortress walls, walking distance to Holy Trinity Square, the cathedral, and the Drava riverbank.

Skip the fortress on a summer weekend afternoon — the yellow barracks buildings have almost no shade, and the bars and cafes inside Tvrđa don't really fill up until early evening anyway.

Read more in Osijek Travel Guide: Habsburg Fortress Walls & a Red-Brick Cathedral.

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