Split is built directly inside and around the Diocletian's Palace, a Roman imperial retirement complex from the early 4th century. Rather than a ruin set apart, the palace is a living quarter where apartments, cafes and shops occupy the ancient walls, cellars and colonnaded courtyards.
Late spring and early autumn offer hot beach weather and ferry-friendly seas while sidestepping the August crush; the city stays lively year-round thanks to its working old-town core.
Pašticada, a slow-braised beef in sweet wine sauce served with gnocchi, grilled fish, and soparnik, a thin Swiss chard pie from the surrounding region.
Inside or beside the palace walls for old-town immersion, or near Bačvice beach east of the center for a more relaxed base.
The palace cellars and the cathedral bell tower both reward exploring; the tower's climb opens onto a high view over the Peristyle and red roofs.
Read more in Croatia: walled cities, white stone & the Adriatic coast.