A Roman-and-Byzantine old town on a slender peninsula, where a wave-powered organ and a circle of solar glass turn the waterfront into an instrument at dusk.
Late spring through early autumn (May–September) for warm swimming weather and long evenings on the waterfront; arrive an hour before sunset regardless of season to claim a spot on the sea-wall steps.
Look for grilled Adriatic fish and black risotto (crni rižot) in the konobas tucked into the old town's back streets, and stop at the morning fish and produce market near the port for the freshest catch and local fruit.
Base yourself inside the old town peninsula, within walking distance of the forum and the waterfront, so the Sea Organ and sunset are a short stroll rather than a planned outing.
Skip the loudest bars along the Riva and just sit on the Sea Organ steps at dusk — the sound is best right at the waterline, and the Sun Salutation only reveals its light patterns once it's properly dark.
Read more in Zadar Travel Guide: The Sea Organ & a Roman Old Town and Croatia: walled cities, white stone & the Adriatic coast.