Gusinje

Where to shoot

• Prokletije National Park — the Accursed Mountains, the least developed of Montenegro's ranges, with peaks over 2,000 m and glacial lakes.
• The Grebaje valley — a long green valley near Vusanje with limestone walls, grazing livestock and a track climbing toward the Albanian border.
• Ali Pasha springs — a set of large karst springs emerging at the foot of a cliff, cold and very clear, with a restaurant beside them.
• Lake Plav — twenty minutes away, with the road along its shore and the mountains behind it.

When to go

July to September, once the high passes have cleared of snow; late August is warm and the valley is still green.

What to eat

Look for lamb or veal cooked slowly under a sač — a metal dome buried in embers — which is the standard mountain method here, served with kajmak, bread and a tomato salad.

Where to stay

In Gusinje town, or in one of the guesthouses toward Vusanje if you want to walk into the Grebaje valley without driving first.