Ulcinj is an Albanian-majority port town at Montenegro's southern tip, where a walled Old Town fortress sits on a cliff above Mala Plaža and a 13-kilometer sand beach runs south to the river border with Albania.
June or September, when the sea is warm and the long beach has space; come in spring or autumn instead if the Salina's migrating birds are the main draw.
Order the catch of the day grilled over coals at one of Ada Bojana's stilt restaurants on the river, and try a plate of byrek or tavë kosi (baked lamb with yogurt) in town for a taste of Ulcinj's Albanian kitchen.
Stay on the hillside around Mala Plaža and the Old Town for walkable sights and sea views, or along Velika Plaža if the beach is the point of the trip.
Walk up to the Old Town in the late afternoon rather than at midday — the stone lanes have little shade, and the cliff faces glow in low western light just before sunset.
Read more in Ulcinj Travel Guide: Old Town Fortress, Velika Plaža & Ada Bojana.