Zabljak is Montenegro's mountain capital, a former ski town that spends its summers as the gateway to Durmitor National Park's glacial lakes, limestone peaks, and pine forest trails.
Late June through September, when the Durmitor Ring and high mountain trails are clear of snow and the Black Lake path is fully walkable.
Kačamak (a dense cornmeal-and-potato mash finished with kajmak) and cicvara (a similar cheese-and-cornmeal dish) are highland staples worth ordering, alongside grilled lamb from the local pastures and skorup, the thick clotted cream served with everything from bread to trout.
Base yourself in central Zabljak within walking distance of the main square, close enough to reach the Black Lake trailhead on foot.
Rent the rowboats at Black Lake before mid-morning — the water is glassy at dawn and gets choppy with wind off the peaks by early afternoon.
Read more in Zabljak Travel Guide: Durmitor's Black Lake & the Balkans' Highest Town.