Gijón pairs a full-size city beach with a fishing-village old quarter, Roman ruins under glass at the water's edge, and some of northern Spain's most serious cider culture.
June, when the Cantabrian coast is warm enough for the beach but before the August crowds and peak cider-festival season fill Cimadevilla.
Order fabada asturiana (a rich white bean stew with chorizo and morcilla) or cachopo (two breaded veal cutlets stuffed with ham and cheese) -- both Asturian staples, not just Gijón specialties.
Base yourself in Cimadevilla or along the San Lorenzo Beach promenade, within walking distance of the Roman baths, the cider houses, and the climb up to Cerro de Santa Catalina.
Order sidra by the bottle, not the glass -- it's meant to be poured a splash at a time (a culin) and drunk immediately before it goes flat, not sipped slowly like wine.
Read more in Gijón Travel Guide: Chillida's Elogio del Horizonte & San Lorenzo Beach.