Chiang Rai is a small, unhurried city on the Kok River near the borders with Laos and Myanmar, founded in 1262 as the first capital of the Lanna kingdom and now best known for its trio of extravagant modern temples.
November through January, when skies are clear and the mornings cool; avoid March if you can, when the smoke haze from the burning season is usually at its worst.
Order khao soi, the coconut-curry egg-noodle soup topped with crispy noodles, plus sai oua, the herb-packed northern Thai sausage, and finish with a pineapple from nearby Nang Lae, which locals rate as Thailand's sweetest.
Stay in the compact center between the clock tower and the Night Bazaar, close to Bus Terminal 1, for walking access to dinner, the evening light show, and the buses north.
Do the White Temple at 8am opening, the Black House after it reopens from any lunch break, and the Blue Temple last, since it stays open until around 8pm and its blues glow under the evening lights.
Read more in Chiang Rai Travel Guide: White Temple, Blue Temple, Black House & Night Bazaar and Thailand: gilded temples, northern hills & Andaman coves.