Verona sits on a bend of the Adige River in the Veneto, layered with Roman, medieval and Renaissance remains. Its centerpiece is the Arena, a 1st-century Roman amphitheater that still hosts large open-air opera performances each summer.
Opera season at the Roman Arena runs late June through early September and is the city's signature draw; for milder weather and lighter crowds on foot, spring and early autumn are the better bet.
Risotto all'Amarone made with local red wine, pastissada de caval, and bigoli, a thick fresh pasta from the Veneto.
The historic center near Piazza Bra and the Arena for walkability, or across the river near the castle hill for quieter streets.
The terrace below Castel San Pietro gives the classic elevated view across the river and is best in the warm light of late afternoon.
Read more in Italy: canals, frescoes & arcaded streets.
