A mountain hot-spring resort with volcanic valleys and Mount Fuji views.
Autumn (October–November) for fiery hillsides and clear Mount Fuji views, or summer for hydrangeas, though July weekends and holidays get crowded at the onsen.
Black eggs (kuro-tamago) boiled in Owakudani's hot springs, and multi-course kaiseki meals served at ryokan inns.
Stay in a traditional ryokan around Gora or Hakone-Yumoto to access onsen baths and the sightseeing loop.
The Hakone Free Pass covers the loop of train, ropeway and boat, making the full circuit straightforward and economical.
Read more in Japan: ancient temples, neon cities & quiet mountain towns and 14-Day Japan Itinerary: Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka & Hiroshima.