Ankara

Where to shoot

• Anıtkabir — Atatürk's mausoleum and the surrounding memorial complex, including the marble-floored Hall of Honor; a solemn, monumental site that says more about modern Turkish identity than anywhere else in the country.
• Ankara Kalesi (the citadel) — a hilltop fortress ringing an old neighborhood of cobblestone streets, weathered houses, and small shops; also the best panoramic view over the city.
• Old town streets around the citadel — narrow lanes strung with Turkish flags, carpet and antique shops, and a lived-in, unpolished feel that's rare this close to a capital's government district.
• Anıtkabir — the monumental hilltop mausoleum of Atatürk within ceremonial grounds
• Ankara Castle — a hilltop citadel of old walls and lanes with views over the city
• Museum of Anatolian Civilizations — a leading collection of Hittite and early Anatolian artifacts
• Hamamönü — a restored district of Ottoman houses and craft workshops below the citadel

When to go

Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) bring mild, dry weather for walking the citadel and the open plazas at Anıtkabir. Summer gets hot and dusty; winter is cold with occasional snow, though the mausoleum's Hall of Honor is an indoor draw year-round.

What to eat

Ankara does a version of Anatolian home cooking rather than the international mix you get in Istanbul — expect grilled meats, lentil soups, and simit stalls, plus Ankara's own tava kebap. The area around the citadel has small, no-frills restaurants serving generous portions to locals rather than tourists.

Where to stay

Kızılay and Çankaya are the central, walkable districts with the most restaurant and hotel options; staying near the citadel puts you closer to the old town but slightly farther from Anıtkabir and the modern city center.